Trachymyrmex septentrionalis photo 1

Trachymyrmex

Trachymyrmex septentrionalis

Expert onlyclaustralHibernatesMonogyne
NEST TEMPERATURE
22–28°C
NEST HUMIDITY
70–90%
Max colony size
600
Queen size
6.5–8 mm
Worker size
3–5 mm
Hibernation
15°C
Worker polymorphism
No

Nuptial Flight Calendar

Flight months: Apr, May, Jun, Jul

Jan
Feb
Mar
Apr
May
Jun
Jul
Aug
Sep
Oct
Nov
Dec

Care Guide

Trachymyrmex septentrionalis is a modestly sized fungus‑growing ant endemic to the eastern and southeastern United States, with a range stretching from Florida to New England and as far west as the Great Plains (GBIF, AntWeb). Queens measure 6.5 to 8 mm, while workers are a monomorphic 3 to 5 mm, forming colonies that rarely exceed 600 individuals (Beshers & Traniello 1994). What truly sets this species apart is its obligate symbiosis with a basidiomycete fungus, which the colony cultivates as its primary food source. Unlike the more familiar leaf‑cutting attines, T. septentrionalis utilizes insect frass, tiny fragments of dead plant material, and other organic detritus to feed its garden, making it a “detritivore” fungus‑grower (Rabeling et al. 2007). Their nests are inconspicuous soil chambers in sandy soils, and the ants are predominantly nocturnal and shy. Nuptial flights occur in the southeastern states from April through July, typically on warm, humid afternoons following heavy rain, a pattern that any prospective collector should note.

This ant is unequivocally an expert‑level species. The fungus‑gardening lifestyle demands rigorous environmental control and a nuanced understanding of a living, breathing garden that can quickly succumb to contamination, desiccation, or nutritional mismanagement. Beginners are almost certain to lose their colony within weeks. Trachymyrmex septentrionalis is best suited to keepers who have already succeeded with other sensitive attines or tropical species requiring extremely high humidity, and who are prepared to monitor conditions daily. The challenge is not aggression or escape—the workers are diminutive and stingless—but the perpetual balancing act of keeping the garden healthy. Because the fungus is the colony’s stomach, every aspect of husbandry revolves around its well‑being, and the learning curve is steep. Only those with a genuine fascination for attine biology and the patience to meticulously research and replicate a tight microclimate should attempt this species.

Housing must provide a stable, high‑humidity environment of 70–90 %, paired with a temperature gradient between 22 and 28 °C. Most successful keepers employ a plaster or ytong nest block that can absorb large amounts of water without flooding; a well‑hydrated nest provides the constant humidity the fungus garden craves. Direct misting of the garden itself is dangerous and can cause droplets to collapse the delicate mycelial structure. Instead, water is added to a reservoir that evaporates slowly, and a small test tube of water plugged with cotton can serve as a drinking station and additional humidity source. The ants will arrange their garden into a sponge‑like mass, and they need a foraging area where they can collect the substrate they will incorporate. No standard substrate like sand or soil is required in the nest chamber—many keepers house the garden on a bare plaster surface—but a thin layer of inert, sterile sand can help with grip. Ensuring the enclosure is fully escape‑proof is vital, as these slender ants can squeeze through minuscule gaps.

Feeding T. septentrionalis means nourishing the fungus, not the ants directly. You will never offer a drop of honey water or a dish of sugar; such substances would only mould and risk killing the garden. Instead, provide a dry mix of finely ground insect remains (cricket or mealworm frass is ideal), crushed oatmeal or cornmeal, and occasionally tiny flecks of dried leaf litter. Small, freshly‑killed fruit flies or pinhead crickets may also be given, but only in quantities that can be processed within a day, as decaying matter is a fast track to fungal disease. The ants will carry these offerings into the garden, chewing and depositing them as a top‑dressing, and the fungus gradually digests the substrate into nutritious gongylidia that the ants then consume (Seal & Tschinkel 2006). Remove any uneaten substrate that has remained untouched for 24 hours. The colony itself needs no additional liquid, obtaining all its moisture from the fungus and ambient humidity, though a cotton‑plugged water tube is always appreciated.

A winter dormancy is mandatory for the long‑term health of this temperate species. As autumn approaches, gradually lower the nest temperature to around 15 °C over the course of two weeks. Maintain this for a period of at least three to four months, during which the ants will cluster tightly around their garden and activity will virtually cease. The fungus garden will shrink and may darken slightly, but it must not be allowed to dry out completely; a slight reduction in humidity is acceptable, but continue to offer a moist substrate. Resuming the normal temperature gradient in early spring will trigger renewed foraging and brood production. Those who skip hibernation or attempt to keep the colony active year‑round at tropical temperatures often witness a gradual decline, likely due to a disrupted biological clock and exhausted gardens.

When your new colony arrives—typically a queen with a pea‑sized garden and just a few workers—place the founding chamber immediately into the prepared, pre‑warmed nest. Do not add any food for the first two or three days; the ants need silence and darkness to recover from shipping stress. Check that humidity is holding steady without condensation forming directly on the garden. When introducing the first substrate, offer a minuscule pinch of dry insect frass placed at the edge of the garden. The ants should discover it and begin working it in. The most critical danger in these early days is mould: any sign of white, wispy foreign hyphae or a slimy, off‑coloured garden requires prompt, careful removal of the affected portion. Sterilize all tools and work with clean hands to avoid importing foreign spores. Resist the urge to peek frequently—every disturbance risks sending the queen into a stress spiral that can doom the fragile incipient colony. With patience and precision, you will witness one of the ant world’s most ancient and captivating husbandry rituals unfold.

Photos119

Trachymyrmex septentrionalis photo 1
Trachymyrmex septentrionalis photo 2
Trachymyrmex septentrionalis photo 3
Trachymyrmex septentrionalis photo 4
Trachymyrmex septentrionalis photo 5
Trachymyrmex septentrionalis photo 6
Trachymyrmex septentrionalis photo 7
Trachymyrmex septentrionalis photo 8
Trachymyrmex septentrionalis photo 9
Trachymyrmex septentrionalis photo 10
Trachymyrmex septentrionalis photo 11
Trachymyrmex septentrionalis photo 12
Trachymyrmex septentrionalis photo 13
Trachymyrmex septentrionalis photo 14
Trachymyrmex septentrionalis photo 15
Trachymyrmex septentrionalis — colony photo 16
Trachymyrmex septentrionalis — colony photo 17
Trachymyrmex septentrionalis — colony photo 18
Trachymyrmex septentrionalis — colony photo 19
Trachymyrmex septentrionalis photo 20
Trachymyrmex septentrionalis photo 21
Trachymyrmex septentrionalis photo 22
Trachymyrmex septentrionalis photo 23
Trachymyrmex septentrionalis photo 24
Trachymyrmex septentrionalis photo 25
Trachymyrmex septentrionalis photo 26
Trachymyrmex septentrionalis photo 27
Trachymyrmex septentrionalis photo 28
Trachymyrmex septentrionalis photo 29
Trachymyrmex septentrionalis photo 30
Trachymyrmex septentrionalis photo 31
Trachymyrmex septentrionalis — colony photo 32
Trachymyrmex septentrionalis photo 33
Trachymyrmex septentrionalis photo 34
Trachymyrmex septentrionalis photo 35
Trachymyrmex septentrionalis photo 36
Trachymyrmex septentrionalis photo 37
Trachymyrmex septentrionalis photo 38
Trachymyrmex septentrionalis photo 39
Trachymyrmex septentrionalis photo 40
Trachymyrmex septentrionalis photo 41
Trachymyrmex septentrionalis photo 42
Trachymyrmex septentrionalis photo 43
Trachymyrmex septentrionalis photo 44
Trachymyrmex septentrionalis photo 45
Trachymyrmex septentrionalis photo 46
Trachymyrmex septentrionalis photo 47
Trachymyrmex septentrionalis photo 48
Trachymyrmex septentrionalis photo 49
Trachymyrmex septentrionalis photo 50
Trachymyrmex septentrionalis photo 51
Trachymyrmex septentrionalis photo 52
Trachymyrmex septentrionalis photo 53
Trachymyrmex septentrionalis photo 54
Trachymyrmex septentrionalis photo 55
Trachymyrmex septentrionalis photo 56
Trachymyrmex septentrionalis photo 57
Trachymyrmex septentrionalis photo 58
Trachymyrmex septentrionalis photo 59
Trachymyrmex septentrionalis photo 60
Trachymyrmex septentrionalis photo 61
Trachymyrmex septentrionalis photo 62
Trachymyrmex septentrionalis photo 63
Trachymyrmex septentrionalis photo 64
Trachymyrmex septentrionalis — worker photo 65
Trachymyrmex septentrionalis — worker photo 66
Trachymyrmex septentrionalis — worker photo 67
Trachymyrmex septentrionalis — worker photo 68
Trachymyrmex septentrionalis — worker photo 69
Trachymyrmex septentrionalis photo 70
Trachymyrmex septentrionalis photo 71
Trachymyrmex septentrionalis photo 72
Trachymyrmex septentrionalis photo 73
Trachymyrmex septentrionalis photo 74
Trachymyrmex septentrionalis photo 75
Trachymyrmex septentrionalis photo 76
Trachymyrmex septentrionalis photo 77
Trachymyrmex septentrionalis photo 78
Trachymyrmex septentrionalis photo 79
Trachymyrmex septentrionalis photo 80
Trachymyrmex septentrionalis photo 81
Trachymyrmex septentrionalis photo 82
Trachymyrmex septentrionalis photo 83
Trachymyrmex septentrionalis photo 84
Trachymyrmex septentrionalis photo 85
Trachymyrmex septentrionalis photo 86
Trachymyrmex septentrionalis photo 87
Trachymyrmex septentrionalis photo 88
Trachymyrmex septentrionalis photo 89
Trachymyrmex septentrionalis photo 90
Trachymyrmex septentrionalis photo 91
Trachymyrmex septentrionalis photo 92
Trachymyrmex septentrionalis photo 93
Trachymyrmex septentrionalis photo 94
Trachymyrmex septentrionalis photo 95
Trachymyrmex septentrionalis photo 96
Trachymyrmex septentrionalis photo 97
Trachymyrmex septentrionalis photo 98
Trachymyrmex septentrionalis photo 99
Trachymyrmex septentrionalis photo 100
Trachymyrmex septentrionalis photo 101
Trachymyrmex septentrionalis photo 102
Trachymyrmex septentrionalis photo 103
Trachymyrmex septentrionalis photo 104
Trachymyrmex septentrionalis photo 105
Trachymyrmex septentrionalis — colony photo 106
Trachymyrmex septentrionalis — colony photo 107
Trachymyrmex septentrionalis photo 108
Trachymyrmex septentrionalis photo 109
Trachymyrmex septentrionalis photo 110
Trachymyrmex septentrionalis photo 111
Trachymyrmex septentrionalis photo 112
Trachymyrmex septentrionalis photo 113
Trachymyrmex septentrionalis photo 114
Trachymyrmex septentrionalis photo 115
Trachymyrmex septentrionalis photo 116
Trachymyrmex septentrionalis photo 117
Trachymyrmex septentrionalis photo 118
Trachymyrmex septentrionalis photo 119

🍪 🍪 Cookie-inställningar

Vi använder cookies för att mäta prestanda. Sekretesspolicy